Well I found out I don't like drawing on the stuff it's a little too smooth I tried a Hard F lead with a leadholder it's just too slippery. The stuff bleeds but the back side is pretty good doens't bleed as much as the front the front of the paper. bleeds pretty bad where you couldn't live with it unless your not out for sharp lines.
I just had to try the stuff because Philip Tan managed to use it.
It works ok when drawing flat with a .5mm pecil with HB lead though you can get some intresting stuff going on because of the slippery board it is.
Okay ... I got my 500 Series Bristol in the mail the other day and the difference even when PENCILLING is night and day between it and the Blue Line stuff I had before. The lines go down easier, they erase easier, and the paper just stands up better to the ware and tare of making the image. I am really considering getting my inks back out.
"The next time I let Superman take charge, just hit me REAL hard" -Batman
http://www.penciljack.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80062
Prove to myself that I have improved, and I win
If you use markers instead of nibs there's less chance of bleeding. I use a smooth nib for the lines that the markers can't do and it does the trick but if I use a scratchy nib like a Hunt 102 or 22 there's going to be some nasty bleeding.
I use the 11x17 Strathmore as well. 100lb smooth 2 ply. It takes anything, pencils/inks/washes, and is much nicer to work with than Blue Line.
It also fits into a Brother A3 scanner/printer(just got one a few weeks back), and has been a godsend for enlarging/editing in PS and then printing it back out to ink. Cuts out a lot of cleaning time in the art process.
it’s as if he figured that sheer repetition would wear them down, forcing them to submit to his strange, incompetent genius.
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What was your shipping charges like form DickBlick ?, how much did you buy ? .Originally Posted by spidey976
I just got a blueline order but the next time i need paper i think i'll get it from DickBlick if the shipping is'nt too crazy .
These are some great prices! I was in a Dick Blick store this weekend and the 500 series paper was a good $30 for 24 sheets.
I bought a pack of the 2-ply pre-lined Strathmore paper, and I'd say just stick with the plain sheets. My main issue was with the blue lines on the paper, they're very dark and the design is pretty shoddy. This is really nitpicky, I know, but I feel it affects the way I draw on them. I also found it didn't take crowquills too well. Strathmore 300 is always a safe bet, I've never had an issue with it in the 7 years I've been goofing around with it. I might get some 11"x17" sheets because often I carry my drawing stuff around and the 14"x17" pads don't fit well in any of my portfolios or carrying cases.
I know no one probably cares, but I prefer a plain smooth finish Strathmore bristol board for comics pages, 11" x 14" that I come in an inch on either side for a drawing area of 9" x 14" comic page proportions. It's small enough to keep me from overdoing the detail as is my tendency when working larger, it's relatively cheap (like $10 for twenty pieces), and thick enough to have a good weight for inking, but thin enough to see through fairly well with a lightbox for transferring rough layouts. I've never used blueline boards, because I've never found them generally available at art stores where I live, and also because I've always thought they were a bit of a scam. I recently handled some and my suspicions were pretty much confirmed: I couldn't believe how crappy and thin it was for the price. If you really need blue lines, just draw 'em on! I'm of the school that believes in experimenting and finding what's right for you. Unless you're poor like me, then you go for the lowest priced option that is still quality stuff. Crappy work is still going to be crappy even if it's drawn on professional-looking boards. Conversely, if you want to present yourself professionally, using Wal-Mart posterboard may not be the best choice. But quality work is still going to impress, no matter what.
Hey there Dog ... well I bought two pads and when it was all said and done ... shipping and taxes all in ... well the sale discounts were all gone. You will pay about $10-$15 more per pad then you would for a cheep pack of BlueLine 2 Ply at say Curry's or for a Canson pad at Michaels's. However, I tore the crap out of those boards JUST with my 0.5 mm mech pencils ... and found erasing to be a bugger on them ... forget inking with a quill on them ... they bleed and tare up. I was constantly cleaning ripped pieces of paper out of my quill. I find that the lines just go down more smoothly with the 500 series ... even with a pencil. I am just getting use to it ... but my blacks are sharper ... my shading more uniform IMHO. So I will order more from them again ... and just keep my old stuff for roughs and the like.
"The next time I let Superman take charge, just hit me REAL hard" -Batman
http://www.penciljack.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80062
Prove to myself that I have improved, and I win
Sounds good thanks for the info .
I was buying pads of 20 sheets 11/14 strathmore from Michaels's until they raised the price even higher ,, $19.99 a pad .
The stuff you get at Michael's is usually 300 series ... it is okay ... but there is a distinct quality difference.
"The next time I let Superman take charge, just hit me REAL hard" -Batman
http://www.penciljack.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80062
Prove to myself that I have improved, and I win
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