paper problem

[dillopod]

I've printed some b&2 penciled pages onto Strathmore series 300 bristol using a color copier to change the lines to cyan and I've come up with a problem. When I try to ink over the copies, the ink won't go over the copier ink. It just seperates. It can be inked over but it takes many passes over an area to black it out. This makes it kind of ridiculous to try and ink over it. I made some of these copies onto laserjet paper and didn't seem to have this problem but I wanted to move to a better paper to ink on. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why this happens and what I can do to avoid it?

[Dash Martin]

Couldn't have come to a better place. I ink almost exclusively on laserprintouts of pencils. First of all, what kind of ink are you using? I've found FW brand ink with a brush works really good on it. If you use a quill, try Higgins Black Magic. Also, a lot of color laser printers use what they call Fuser Oil which goes on top of the printout before it spits it out. Gives it a nice gloss but makes it really hard to ink on. Usually this feature can be disabled in the printer driver settings and/or on the printer itself. You may need to print at a lower DPI as well. I've found 600dpi works best. Hope this helps.

[dillopod]

Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it. Are you talking about a printer or a copier? I used a color copier at Kinko's. I made copies on inkjet paper using the same color copier and didn't have the problem. That's why it leads me to believe that the paper has something to do with it but I could be wrong. I've been using Black Magic with a brush and quill as well as micro pigma pens and the result is the same with all of them. I recieved this reply from another forum in case your interested:

"In my days at Kinko's, I tried to do this as well, and it didn't work for me either.
I'd suggest printing your blue lines with an inkjet printer. The printing ink is water-based and easier to cover with india ink.

Or if you want to try it on the color copier again, adjust the contrast so the cyan toner is very pale by adjusting the coverage (a well-trained copy employee will know how to do this). The copier will place less toner on the paper, so there is less to resist the india ink. If you create a digital file to be "printed" via the color copier, make sure your files are cmyk, but colored only 25% cyan (sounds difficult, but very easy to do with most layout/imaging programs)."

[Dash Martin]

I'm talking about a color laser printer...but color copiers work the exact same way. They're also color laser. They just scan in the image and make a color laser printout in one process...so what I said above still applies and you should still take the suggestions to heart. At the very least, switch to FW brand ink. It's acrylic and will stick to ANYthing.

[dillopod]

Thanks. Your right, and I do. I'll probably get some FW ink for the copies I've already made and maybe try the copier idea again later. Should I be able to disable the fuder oil on a color copier as well? That sounds like it might help. What kind of paper do you use to print your pages on?

[Baloodoo Bill]

Try an eraser. It will strip the film but leave the blue. Worked on the Marvel Tryout Book's pages anyway.

[Dash Martin]

Should be able to disable it on the copier...may require breaking out the owner's manual though. As for paper...I print on EON's if I have em. Otherwise I just use high quality, heavy duty 11x17 color laser paper, but I've done enough on the EON's to know what works on good paper.