My Drawing Equipment

[Bruce Lee]

I get asked every now and then what sort of equipment I use to draw with. I have a lot of art equipment in my studio. Here's a list of supplies that I commonly use on the job:

1) Design pencils.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiopencil.jpg

I use these design pencils often, and other similar brand drawing pencils. My "lead" preference (and it is still called "lead", folks, even though it is actually graphite) is a 2H, but I sometimes use and H or an HB as well. These are quality pencils that last a decent amount of time. I like using wooden pencils instead of mechanical pencils or "lead holders" because they're sturdier. I break mechanical pencil graphite too easily.

2) 400 Strathsmore Bristol Board.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiobristol.jpg

Most of the time I work on 400 series Bristol board. It's a good, general-purpose board. The 300 series board is "kid finish" and not to my liking at all. I sometimes work on 500 series bristol, and that's the BEST, but it's expensive.

3) Mars Plastic Eraser.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studioeraser.jpg

The Mars Plastic Eraser is a good old fashion block eraser that really gets the job done. I've found few block erasers that compare to this one.

[Bruce Lee]

4) Electric Eraser.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studioelectric.jpg

For work on the board, I find nothing better at getting at those tiny, tight lines than an electric eraser. Staedtler makes a dandy electric eraser that's affordable at under $15. I ordered 70 extra eraser fills for mine, and it's one of my favorite and most useful pieces of drawing equipment.

5) Speedball Super Black India Ink.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studioink.jpg

When I ink, I use Speedball Super Black ink. It's a solid ink that plenty thick and covers well. It can easily be thinned down using a few drops of water also, or with thinner inks like the modern Black Magic Ink. For brush inking, I highly recommend it.

6) Raphael Kolinsky Red Sable 8404 Brushes.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiobrush.jpg

I've found no better brush for inking. I use the #2 and the #3 Raphael brushes. The hair used in Kolinsky Sable brushes comes from the hair of a mink in the weasel family found in Siberia and Northeastern China. Kolinsky hair brushes are considered to be of the best material for oil and watercolor brushes because the hair is strong, springy and retains its shape, holding a very fine point. If you treat these brushes right, they will last for a long time. I use several Kolinsky brushes, but I've been using one particular Rapheal Kolinsky Red Sable for over a decade now. and it's still going strong, and retains a nice point! The 8404 and the 8408 series of Raphael brushes make for excellent inking brushes.

A good brush can give you the best range of line for inking, and I highly recommend Raphaels. Only the Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes come close to these.

A number of art stores carry these brushes, but they tend to be difficult to find. Your best bet to obtain them is from dickblick.com. Here's some links:

Raphael Kolinsky Red Sable 8404s:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz050/48/
Raphael Kolinsky Red Sable 8408s:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz052/89/

[Bruce Lee]

7) Pelikan Graphic White Acrylic

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiowhite.jpg

When you're inking, you need a good "white out". My white out of choice is Pelikan Graphic White. It covers well, and lasts a good long time if you maintain it properly. It does require some water and some shaking to ensure that it doesn't harden up in the bottle though. Still the best I've found, despite the maintenance.

8) Metal Ruler.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studioruler.jpg

I often make use of a 24" flexible metal ruler when I'm working. I prefer metal rulers to wood and plastic rulers because they're less likely to get dinged and warped over time. It's a great straight edge for drawing panel borders, buildings, or gridding out perspective lines. Everyone should have one of these, preferably with a raised bit of cork on the back, which allows it to be used while inking.

9) Faber-Castell Pitt Pens.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiopitt.jpg

When it comes to sketch in ink or needing to ink mechanical things, I often use a Pitt Pen for the job. Pitt Pens are similar to Micron Pens, but unlike Microns, Pitt Pens are filled with a black India Ink. As a disposable pen goes, you can't beat these. Their only disadvantage is that they don't come in enough point size variation. They are available in small, fine, Medium, and brushpen points. Even without having a larger point variety, I'll take these pens over other disposable pens any day.

[Bruce Lee]

10) Kneaded Eraser.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiokneaded.jpg

This little eraser is good if you pencil with softer graphites. It excels at picking up smudges and "paw-prints". It's also good at picking up faint pencil lines used for underdrawing.


11) Dr martins dyes/watercolors.

http://www.lostonwallace.com/studiodrmartins.jpg

Sometimes I am asked to do full color commission art. When this happens, I use Dr Martins dyes/watercolors. Dr Martins colors actually dye the paper, so they are a bit unforgiving, but the vivid colors you can get from them is amazing. Usually a few drops of water and a drop of one color goes a very long way. They can be used like watercolors--easily diluted with water. used straight out of the bottle, the colors are quite overpowering, so it's good to have a mixing palette tray. Back at the Kubert School, I found that a common kitchen ice tray made a great mixing tray for colors. Dr Martins used to be used to make color guides for comic pages, and have been used by industry pros for decades.

[Bruce Lee]

BEFORE YOU POST QUESTIONS HERE: I would just like to say that I'm happy to answer specific questions about the various drawing equipments that I use on a daily basis, provided you are first willing to ask yourself if your question is something that might be better suited for the TIPS & TECH board, where you can get the opinions of many other PJers. If you have any doubts about your question, you might want to post it on the TIPS & TECH board, where you can be sure to get a well-rounded response. I can provide you with my own personal opinions and info here, but the TIPS & TECH board is probably suited for more general questions, etc. I don't mind elaborating on some of the items I list here, or on some other equipment I use from time to time, but remember that the TIPS & TECH board is your best bet for answering most questions.

[KrisDiaz]

i got a qiuck question....you say you use pitt pens and that they are similar to microns except that they use black india ink.my question is what makes them better than microns and what ink do microns use?do they smere less or something?personally i use microns in every size from.2 to the brush tips and i think they are fine...but i also dont ink to often

[Bruce Lee]

i got a qiuck question....you say you use pitt pens and that they are similar to microns except that they use black india ink.my question is if that makes them better than microns and what ink do microns use?personally i use microns in every size from.2 to the brush tips and i think they are fine...but i also dont ink to often

It's a matter of personal preference, but I think the Pitt Pens have some advantage of the Microns. Micron Pens use a thinner, pigma ink of lesser quality, IMO. I prefer the richer black look of Pitt Pen lines, and find them to bleed less.

[fatmancomics]

I'd like to see your full color work. Can you post some in your sketchblog or in the color section?

[bindlestitch]

Loston,
I was wondering if you could recommend a pen, I'm wanting a refillable pen but nothing with a techpen style tip. I've used statdler marsomatic techs for umpteen years and I'm just sick of their temperamental nature. Always having to clear the tip, or if you try to thin the ink down so it flows better then your ink is washed out looking. Then I've got the problem of (in the fine points particularly ) the tip wanting to drag on the paper.
Any recommendations?

[Bruce Lee]

Loston,
I was wondering if you could recommend a pen, I'm wanting a refillable pen but nothing with a techpen style tip. I've used statdler marsomatic techs for umpteen years and I'm just sick of their temperamental nature. Always having to clear the tip, or if you try to thin the ink down so it flows better then your ink is washed out looking. Then I've got the problem of (in the fine points particularly ) the tip wanting to drag on the paper.
Any recommendations?

I used the Marsomatic pens, and I agree with you about them. They clog far too easily--even if you clean them regularly-- and it takes forever to get them flowing again. I've had better luck with the white Rapidographs, but all tech pens will clog.

I think you'd be better off just using Pitt Pens or Microns, bindlestich. I know you're looking for something refillable, but you'll have less hassle out of these disposables, and are great for doing technical line work. These pens last a decent amount of time, and work well with rulers, templates, etc. I really recommend buying the Faber-Castell black pen four pack containing a small, fine, and Medium point pen, and a brushpen. I think you'll forget about ever using the Marsomatic Pens again.

As for refillable pens, I don't know of any good ones offhand--I've never needed more than a disposable-- but you might find someone on the Tips & Tech board who can offer some suggestions to you.

Loston

[Bruce Lee]

I'd like to see your full color work. Can you post some in your sketchblog or in the color section?

There are a few pieces in my sketchblog, but they exist as links only, because they contain nudity. Check you PM box. I'll send you a link to something I colored with Dr Martins dyes.

Loston

[theGOBLIN]

Where the heck are the sharpies?? jk. :)

[bindlestitch]

I used the Marsomatic pens, and I agree with you about them. They clog far too easily--even if you clean them regularly-- and it takes forever to get them flowing again. I've had better luck with the white Rapidographs, but all tech pens will clog.

I think you'd be better off just using Pitt Pens or Microns, bindlestich. I know you're looking for something refillable, but you'll have less hassle out of these disposables, and are great for doing technical line work. These pens last a decent amount of time, and work well with rulers, templates, etc. I really recommend buying the Faber-Castell black pen four pack containing a small, fine, and Medium point pen, and a brushpen. I think you'll forget about ever using the Marsomatic Pens again.

As for refillable pens, I don't know of any good ones offhand--I've never needed more than a disposable-- but you might find someone on the Tips & Tech board who can offer some suggestions to you.

Loston

Excellent. I'll difinatley give those suggestions a try.
Thanks, man.:cool:

[smygba]

I don't doubt that equipment helps, but lets be fair, but you can probably make art out a pudding stick these days.

[Bruce Lee]

I don't doubt that equipment helps, but lets be fair, but you can probably make art out a pudding stick these days.

You can make art from anything if you're creative, but having the right tools for the job really does help a great deal, smygba. :)

Loston

[bindlestitch]

Loston,
About the pelican graphic white. I have problems with my white ink (dr. martins bombay white) smearing the black that I'm trying to cover. It reactivates (for lack of a better word) the black ink under it and I get a muddy mess. Does the pelican solve this problem? I guess what I'm asking is: am I doing something wrong or is it my chosen ink?
Your tops,
Iz

[Bruce Lee]

Loston,
About the pelican graphic white. I have problems with my white ink (dr. martins bombay white) smearing the black that I'm trying to cover. It reactivates (for lack of a better word) the black ink under it and I get a muddy mess. Does the pelican solve this problem? I guess what I'm asking is: am I doing something wrong or is it my chosen ink?
Your tops,
Iz

I've not used the Dr Martins Bombay White, but I know that if it's a watercolor or dye it can reactivate with other things. Watercolors and dyes seep into the paper, actually coloring/dying the paper. The Pelikan Graphic White is pretty much a white acrylic paint, and even though it is water-based, it works to coat/cover the top of the paper surface. Being a water-based paint, you can thin it with water to your own personal preference for the smoothest of applications. If you're using a permanent India ink, you should not have any problems with Pelikan Graphic White reactivating the ink. You can lay it down thin or thick without problem.

Keep in mind that you should always use white outs after your inks have dried and extra pencil lines have been erased away from the inks. India ink dries very quickly, so you're not likely to encounter problems.


Recommended PELIKAN GRAPHIC WHITE Maintenance:

Every so often, Pelikan Graphic White tends to thicken up (due to the loss of water vapor), and become "gummy" and too thick to use properly. When this happens, all you need to do is add about 10-12 drops of water to the bottle, then you need to put the lid back on the bottle and shake the contents. I recommend covering the entire bottle with a rag to ensure that non of the contents spills out from beneath the lid. The addition of water and a few good shakes should put you back in business.

Loston

[Bruce Lee]

Where the heck are the sharpies?? jk. :)

Heh. :D I do use Sharpies a lot, but never for finished artworks. It's the only reason they weren't included on this list, because as permanent markers go, it's difficult to find better markers than Sharpies. I use them quite often for rough layouts and sketching.

Also missing from my list are circle & ellipse templates and french curves, which I use from time to time.

Loston

[Ian Miller]

Heh. :D I do use Sharpies a lot, but never for finished artworks. It's the only reason they weren't included on this list, because as permanent markers go, it's difficult to find better markers than Sharpies. I use them quite often for rough layouts and sketching.

Also missing from my list are circle & ellipse templates and french curves, which I use from time to time.

Loston

Everyone knows that Sharpies are an easy way to fill in black areas...Are there any potential harmful side effects to the art from using Sharpies or other permanent markers? I used to use them a ton when inking because of the solid, dark marks they made in large black areas, and even though it's not the most professional way to fill in blacks I know some pros do use them. Like Joe Quesada said once, anything that can make pure black and white in a comic is kosher.

[Bruce Lee]

Everyone knows that Sharpies are an easy way to fill in black areas...Are there any potential harmful side effects to the art from using Sharpies or other permanent markers? I used to use them a ton when inking because of the solid, dark marks they made in large black areas, and even though it's not the most professional way to fill in blacks I know some pros do use them. Like Joe Quesada said once, anything that can make pure black and white in a comic is kosher.

A lot of pros use Sharpies on finished artwork, but for me it's just as easy to fill up those areas of black space with Speedball ink and brush, and the look you get with India ink is superior. Sharpie markers soak into the paper and can sometimes bleed outward, even on good paper like bristol board, unlike India Inks, which lay on top of the surface of the paper. My personal aesthetic enters into this choice too. Sharpie markers make for a very flat, and often very dull area of spotted black. The coloration of Sharpie line is not as rich and dark black as India ink. Side by side, there's no comparison to which ink finish looks best. As a collector of original art, it can be a night and day sort of difference.

Sharpie "inks" might look just fine in print, where the line can be adjusted for contrast by Photoshop, etc, but Sharpie finishes don't necessarily look so good on the original artwork itself, and can sometimes look awkward when mixed with India inked linework. It's not a look that I personal enjoy, nor is it a look that many collectors of original art like either. India Ink is always a winner with everyone, always prints well, and covers just fine. I see know reason to ever use markers in the inks when I can get superior quality line and coverage with a brush and a bottle of Speedball ink. I'm crazy like that. ;)

Loston

[amadarwin]

Plus sharpie black turns greenish over time. Unless they've fixed that...

[KrisDiaz]

ya sharpies tend to look crappy and the smell gives me headaches....sometimes its better to ink with a process and material that takes time rather than rush it with a easier or low quality products....

[bindlestitch]

Loston,
First off thanks for the suggestion to leave the tech's behind and go with the pits. I tried them and they perform great.
Now for another question.
What's the best way you've found to clean ink off of nibs. I can't remember if you mentioned them in this thread, so I don't know if you use them or not. But I have a problem of when I'm using a nib the ink dries on the surface and it clogs the nib and it's hard to get that dried on ink off.
Any suggestions?

[Bruce Lee]

Loston,
First off thanks for the suggestion to leave the tech's behind and go with the pits. I tried them and they perform great.
Now for another question.
What's the best way you've found to clean ink off of nibs. I can't remember if you mentioned them in this thread, so I don't know if you use them or not. But I have a problem of when I'm using a nib the ink dries on the surface and it clogs the nib and it's hard to get that dried on ink off.
Any suggestions?

I haven't used nibs in a big way since the 90s. Once I became proficient enough with an inking brush, I stopped using them in a big way. As best I recall though, using soap and water is your best way to keep nibs clean of ink. If it's too late for that, and you already have caked on ink to deal with, I suggest trying an ink cleaning solution like the sort you can buy to clean tech pens with. Those have worked for me before. You might also try to soak your nibs into a solution of soap and warm water and ammonia. That might just do the trick.

If all else fails, simply buy a few new nibs--they're not too expensive. Just remember to soak your nibs in warm soapy water when you're done using them, and rinse them out. Don't forget to dry them with a lint-free cloth to prevent them from rusting.

Nibs never lasted me too long when I inked with them. I went through a #102 nib about every page and a half of inking I did, so I used to buy nibs by the box.

Hope that helps.

Loston

[bindlestitch]

Definitely helps. I want to get better with a brush but until then I'm using some nibs.
Thanks , Loston.
Iz

[KrisDiaz]

i just wanted to say i just recently went out and bought a few things from your list(had to sneak out from house arrest...sssshhhh....dont tell anyone) i got the kneaded eraser which works great and the design pencil (h) which i like alot surprisingly...i prefer mechanical pencils...and some ink,quill and brushes so i can practice inking..either way thanks for suggesting this stuff...hopefully i get better first and can put this cool stuff to use!

[Bruce Lee]

i just wanted to say i just recently went out and bought a few things from your list(had to sneak out from house arrest...sssshhhh....dont tell anyone) i got the kneaded eraser which works great and the design pencil (h) which i like alot surprisingly...i prefer mechanical pencils...and some ink,quill and brushes so i can practice inking..either way thanks for suggesting this stuff...hopefully i get better first and can put this cool stuff to use!

Glad my list could be of some help to you, Kris.

Loston

[KrisDiaz]

i got a question about quill tip sizes....what sizes do you suggest for different things.....like which are good for detail...broad lines...stuff like that...right now i have...i think...102,107,108,512,56,and 66 i really cant tell 2 much of a difference?

[Bruce Lee]

i got a question about quill tip sizes....what sizes do you suggest for different things.....like which are good for detail...broad lines...stuff like that...right now i have...i think...102,107,108,512,56,and 66 i really cant tell 2 much of a difference?

The difference is in terms of nib flexibility, and what sort of thick to thin line you can produce. When I used nibs, I pretty much used 108s for drawing contour lines (figure outlines), and 102s for doing fine details (background characters, details around eyes, etc). Both of these points were fairly flexible, and capable of producing a line that could be thin or thick, depending on how much pressure you applied to the pen. Other nibs aren't as flexible, and are better for producing a consistent, unvarying line. I know I used 107s sometimes, but I can't remember if those were the nibs that produced such a line or not. I haven't used nibs in a big way since the mid 1990s, so my memory of such things has faded a bit.

At some point back then I concluded that I could get just about any sort of line I needed with a brush, so I abandoned the nibs for those. In the long run, brushes have been a lot less hassle than nibs. A good brush, properly maintained, will last a long, long time. I've used one brush since 1996 and it's still producing decent lines, and keeping its point! Considering I went through a single 102 nib for about every one page of inks, I think I made the right decision. I know I can get better lines with the brush, and never have to worry about constant dipping, or waiting for panels to dry, or changing points or pens to ink different objects. Brushes do have the biggest learning curve of any inking tool, but its benefits are also the greatest as well.

Hope that helps though.

Loston

[KrisDiaz]

i got a couple ?s about the Dr martins dyes/watercolors.
that you have here in ya list.the set you got pictured...how much does it usally run and do they last a decent amount of time

[SpawnSC]

i got a couple ?s about the Dr martins dyes/watercolors.
that you have here in ya list.the set you got pictured...how much does it usally run and do they last a decent amount of time

http://www.dickblick.com/zz211/22/

:pj:

$35 for set of 12

1.94 each for 1

or is it this set..

http://www.dickblick.com/zz253/12a/

loston need some help lol

[Bruce Lee]

i got a couple ?s about the Dr martins dyes/watercolors.
that you have here in ya list.the set you got pictured...how much does it usally run and do they last a decent amount of time


The set I use can be purchased here. This is the watercolors, not the inks:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz253/12a/
You can buy individual bottles here:
http://www.dickblick.com/zz253/12/

It generally will run you around $50-60 for a set of a dozen bottles.
I have a different set of colors than the ones that are now available. Many colors have been renamed or replaced with different colors, but the basic set I have includes the following colors:

-Vermillion
-Magenta
-Black
-Yellow Ochre
-Rose Carthane
-Cadmium Orange
-Scarlet
-Cadmium
-Burnt Sienna
-Sepia
-Yellow Lemon
-Cerulean blue

I would guess that "Set A" would be the set I have. You might have to mix colors to make other colors (blue and yellow for green, etc), unless you buy a bunch of extra colors. The good thing is that a very little color goes a LOOOOOOOOOOONG way. I've had my set since 1996! The color in the bottles are full concentrated colors. What this means is that they're overpoweringly brilliant and bright. You want to have a mixing tray handy. I use this one...
http://www.dickblick.com/zz030/06/
...but you can use an ice tray from the refrigerator or something similar too. What you want to do is fill up a well of your mixing tray 3/4ths of the way with water. You then add only a small, single drop of color to the water-filled well and mix them. Each bottle has a dropper top to make this easy for you. This should dilute the color enough to make it usable. Chances are, it'll still be a very vibrant and bright color, so you might need to add more water to the well (that's why I suggest filling the well on 3/4ths of the way initially). In the unlikely even the color is too diluted, you can simply add another drop of color. Anyway, you only use a drop of color at a time, so these bottles can last you a long time. Often you won't use all the color in your tray well(s) , so you might want to start off with only a small amount of water in the well with the smallest drop of color possible. You'll be able to figure that out after some time doing it.

These colors will soak into your paper, so it's important to have good paper that won't bleed much. 400 or 500 Series Bristol is fine. So is most illustration board and watercolor papers.

Applying the colors is another matter. If you want to prevent streaking from occurring, you need to dip a clean brush in water, and then brush the water onto the areas of the image where you want to lay colors down. Let's say we're coloring Iron Man or something-- and you want to color the yellow parts of his costume. You dip your clean brush into a cup of water (you should always have a cup or jar of water around for rinsing brushes when you're coloring or inking). Then you brush the wet bristles over the yellow parts of Iron Man's armor. Be careful not to get out of the lines because that can be troublesome when you add the color.

Now you can dip your brush into your Dr. Martins color well tray and begin to color. Touch your brush to the art where you applied the water. You'll start to see the color spreading across the paper. It will spread throughout the areas where the water was added. Don't worry, it won't spread past the areas where you brushed on the water, and you're still going to need to brush the color around a bit. Your brush will be used like a mop, moving the color to where it needs to go. Once you're done adding the first round of color, let it dry. Then wash out your brush. Add water to the next area to be colored. In case of Iron Man, that'd be the red parts of the armor. Do the same thing again and again until you're done. You can mix colors to make darker shadow colors, etc. It's why it's good to have a multi-welled palette tray. Once you're done with the colors, you can empty your tray, and it should wash out with water.

No time to give you a full tutorial on Dr. Martins here, but you can find out more about using them online. I once saw a few tutorials floating around on applying color and mixing colors (like making your own fleshtones, etc).

Colors I go through a lot are Black, Scarlet, Vermillion, and Lemon Yellow. Might want to buy an extra bottle of those--especially the BLACK.

Hope that helps.

Loston

[KrisDiaz]

damn dude i wasnt expecting you to right a novel on the subject but its great to have such input.....im gonna practice inking before i experiment with watercolors(my brush skills suck).......thank you for your time!

[Bruce Lee]

damn dude i wasnt expecting you to right a novel on the subject but its great to have such input.....im gonna practice inking before i experiment with watercolors(my brush skills suck).......thank you for your time!

Well, if you're considering buying the Dr Martins it's good to know what you're getting into. I had instructors to help me figure things out. I just wanted to keep you from potentially ruining a lot of paper and color figuring out the proper way to use them. ;)

By the way...if you put the water down over the area you intend to color, you won't need to have the world's greatest brush skills. The water will help the color spread evenly--all you have to do is mop it along and be careful not to color outside the lines.


Loston

[SilverSkies]

Mr.Loston, i have a question. can i know meaning of IMO?

[e_t_i]

I got your back, Loston.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=IMO

[spidey976]

Mr.Loston, i have a question. can i know meaning of IMO?

"IMO"= In My Oppinion .... I know I am not Loston ... but will that do??? lol

[SilverSkies]

Thanks spidey976 and e_t_i....

[Bruce Lee]

Okay then. Moving on...next question?

[SilverSkies]

If Any Problem With My English I'm Sorry For That.......

Mr.Loston, This time i need a help. when i finish my pencil after that. i make a my pencil to blue-line for Inking and i finish my inking then i scan it and clean it. After I'm cleaning my ink.... my ink like this? and so you can help me Mr.Loston...

Before:
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/8332/50099397qd4.jpg

After:
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/2937/94628170ja5.jpg

[Bruce Lee]

Sorry, but I'm not really sure what you're asking, Silverskies. Are you inking on a computer? By hand? If you are inking by hand, what tools are you using when you are inking?

Loston

[SilverSkies]

Mr.Loston, I'm inking By hand and I am using Rotring Technical Ten 0.1, 0.3 and 0.5...

[Kesto-v]

Hello there Mr. Wallace. I've recently got back to fine hobby of drawing and stuff incl. I've got a question about Inks and brushes. Have you used Windsor&Newton Black India Drawing Ink or Talens' Drawing Ink? And how about Lukas' Kolinsky brushes? I searched items on your tools list, but ran into some availibility problems and Raphael Kolinsky's are quite expensive here. I've used nibs too, but I don't like them so much. I've been using Pelican Drawing Ink which gives "palish" result and seems somehow lacking of quality. Thank you for your time

[Bruce Lee]

Hello there Mr. Wallace. I've recently got back to fine hobby of drawing and stuff incl. I've got a question about Inks and brushes. Have you used Windsor&Newton Black India Drawing Ink or Talens' Drawing Ink? And how about Lukas' Kolinsky brushes? I searched items on your tools list, but ran into some availibility problems and Raphael Kolinsky's are quite expensive here. I've used nibs too, but I don't like them so much. I've been using Pelican Drawing Ink which gives "palish" result and seems somehow lacking of quality. Thank you for your time

I haven not used Winsor & Newton Black India Drawing ink before so I can't vouch for the quality, but I have used their color inks/dyes, which have proven to be reliable.

As far as Raphael brushes go, they're never too cheap to buy. They are an investment, and if properly maintained, each brush should last you a few years. I'm not sure where you live in the world, so I'm not sure about the availability of Raphael Brushes, but they can be ordered online. They aren't cheap, but they are worth the price, IMO.

I've used the Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes before, and I found them to be nearly as good as the Raphaels. I do recommend those as an alternative choice to Raphael Kolinsky brushes. Winsor & Newton series 7 brushes have been an industry standard for decades.

As far as the Pelikan Drawing ink, that is a thin ink commonly used to fill tech pens and other drawing pens. It is purposefully thin so that it won't clog the pen, and will maintain a decent flow. If you want to use Pelikan for brush inking, you might want to combine it with another ink like Speedball Super Black India Ink or Black Magic in order to create a thicker ink. I still recommend Speedball Super Black over all other inks on the market. It's extremely affordable, and if you're willing to add a few drops of distilled water every now and then and shake the bottle, it's your best bet. It's also very affordable. I've heard from many pro inkers that Black Magic ink used to be the BEST ink on the market for many decades. It was an industry standard. At some point in the late '80s or early '90s the animal fats were removed from the Black Magic product and the quality just isn't as good as it once was. The ink is a little thinner than it once was. Black Magic is still considered an industry standard though, and many modern inkers use it. I've used it, but prefer the results I get with Speedball Super Black. I have mixed Speedball and Black Magic together, and that creates a decent ink. The thicker Speedball ink is thinned by the Black Magic, and the two make for a nice opaque black coating.

Loston

[Kesto-v]

Thank you for your time, good answer as usual. I think I'm gonna give W&N + Lukas' brushes a try

[Bruce Lee]

Thank you for your time, good answer as usual. I think I'm gonna give W&N + Lukas' brushes a try

Let me know what you think of those, Kesto.

Loston

[Telekinetic Ketchup]

ooooh faber castell pitt pens I love those things.

[WarriorSmurf]

Plus sharpie black turns greenish over time. Unless they've fixed that...

Industrial Sharpies. You can buy a box of 'em at Staple :cool:

[Geekboy]

Thanks for recommending the Pitt pens. I'm playing with getting back into the inking game and while I love experimenting with my brushes and dip pens at home, they're an awesome alternative when I'm at work or on the go.

[Bruce Lee]

Thanks for recommending the Pitt pens. I'm playing with getting back into the inking game and while I love experimenting with my brushes and dip pens at home, they're an awesome alternative when I'm at work or on the go.

You're welcome. :)

[Ace Corona]

I've got an 18" C-Thru cork-bottom ruler that I've had since 2005 or 2006, should I got out and buy a 24" version that you recommended? I have a T square that is a lot longer, so do I really need a 24" ruler? The 18" ruler I have has served me well.

[Bruce Lee]

I've got an 18" C-Thru cork-bottom ruler that I've had since 2005 or 2006, should I got out and buy a 24" version that you recommended? I have a T square that is a lot longer, so do I really need a 24" ruler? The 18" ruler I have has served me well.

It's not the size of the ruler that counts, Ace...it's how you use it! Heh. ;) Seriously though, if you're good to go with an 18" ruler, that's perfectly fine. All the same, I do recommend getting a metal ruler though, because you need to have a ruler that can be used to make straight lines. Wooden and plastic rulers often have bumps, warbles, nicks or other deformities in the that metal rulers don't typically have. Metal rulers are obviously stronger and more resistant to such damage. I have 2 C-Thru rulers, and one of them has a slight curving bump on the side. I have 4 metal rulers without any deformities. In fact, I've never really seen or used a metal ruler with that sort of problem. Not to mention that a metal ruler might last you a lifetime of use. No plastic ruler can live up to that.