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ecstaticboy
05-22-2003, 10:57 PM
any tips for the young man wishing to use a quill pen to ink with??
all help will be apreciated

markenglert
05-22-2003, 11:35 PM
... it'll take awhile to get used to it. It's not like using a marker, you have to break it in.

At first you'll only get little skinny lines, I usually use this time to ink arm hairs or little details. If you press to hard at his point you'll break the tip and send a spatter of ink flying everywhere... expect this happen from time to time.

One you break it in, after about an hour or o of drawing with it, the nib with start to get pretty springy and flexible and you can get some radical variations in line.

NOTE: mosts nibs lay down pretty darn thick lines of ink down and take awhile to draw. If you absentmindedly brush your hand or palm against an area you inked in the past 5-10 minutes, you'll smudge it up.

It'll just take a bunch of practice and fooling around with it, like any other tool, really... it's worth it.

Oh, and i use hunt 104 and regular Higgins Black Magic

ecstaticboy
05-23-2003, 12:05 AM
terrific! thank you very much. you were very informative.

Dash Martin
05-23-2003, 12:26 AM
I use a Hunt 102 for my quill stuff, but I only use the quill for really detailed stuff. Outlines and most hatching, I do with a brush.

Quiller-Bee
05-23-2003, 07:09 AM
I hope this proves to be of some help, ecstaticboy . . .

During the manufacturing process, quills are covered with a very thin coating of oil to keep them from rusting. This is done for the sake preserving the quill and prolonging its shelf-life while not in use. You'll notice that sometimes a brand new quill won't take the ink as it's supposed to. This too can cause frustrating spatters. The way to prevent this from ever happening is to keep a lighter on hand. After you've inserted the quill into its holder, hold it over the flame of the lighter to quickly burn away that annoying film of oil. Be careful not to overheat your quill, as this process literally takes a mere second. Give it a couple of seconds to cool, and your quill is ready to use.

Quiller-Bee
05-23-2003, 07:53 AM
One other thing. As mark already stated, quills have to be broken in. Something that I like to do is have a couple of quills inserted into quill holders that I've marked for the sake of differentiation. I use the first holder for a quill that's already been broken in, while the other is used for a brand new quill that is in the process of breaking in. Once the first quill wears out--which sometimes doesn't take very long to happen--I'll retire it. The new quill is (hopefully) broken in by this point, and a new quill enters the rotation to begin the process of being broken in.

For what it's worth, the following are the quills I most often use in addition to my other inking tools. I primarily use Hunt's #102 and #104 quills. In the course of its life, the 104 will remain fairly stiff. (This is my personal experience, anyway.) While the line can be varied as is expected of quills, it's intended to be used for more rigid linework. The 102 is a lot more flexible and lays down a more varied line. It's simply a matter of personal preference, but the 102 is the one quill I'd chose if I were forced to do so.

ecstaticboy
05-23-2003, 03:32 PM
thanks quiller-bee, your tips were very helpful.

markenglert
05-23-2003, 03:57 PM
...I use hunt 102's as well.

It's just lately that I've been using the 104 more since I've been getting better with the brush and only need to use the pen for the smaller stuff.